Launched on 20th December 2016 in the somewhat central locale of Powai, SugarPlay rewrites norms in more ways than one – it employs molecular pairing in baking and is India’s only online fine patisserie.
Walking up a narrow, winding alley with dwellers peeking on through iron barred windows that one often finds in Mumbai one least expects to encounter the test kitchen of a gourmet patisserie. And yet the obscurely located kitchen is home to SugarPlay – one Chef Amit Mehta’s latest playground where he fuses science and cuisine; breaking down the molecular composition of ingredients laboratory-style, he and partner Bharti Mehta have devised unusual pairings such as such as his Limewire’s Lime – Peas – Blueberry – Dill, or Raspberry, White Chocolate, Coconut and oddly enough French Mustard in A Beautiful Mess.
While Chef has formerly been associated with Company of Cooks, London and Boathouse Restaurants Co. in Singapore, Bharti has a Science background, in identifying molecules to be specific. “We’re passionate about rewriting the grammar of baking and cooking. We take the idea of what is conventional and accepted, and give it our own SugarPlay twist,” says Chef Amit. All their behind-the-scenes research, however, is to produce desserts which are uncomplicated and emphasize homegrown ingredients. “We strip the world of desserts of its needless posturing. Ingredients, be it local or international, will be the star of the dish if they’re used intelligently.”
While my companion is pretty darn kicked about the clever use of mustard in Mehta’s ‘A Beautiful Mess’, for this writer, a condiment is a condiment is a condiment. And although I laud the effort, I find comfort in the familiar albeit innovative still ‘The Original Sin’, which introduces poppy and clove in a salted caramel tart by way of a reinvention. The unanimous favorite from our sampling of six of the seven SugarPlay Signatures though is the Paradox – a light coconut panna cotta with layers of a mildly spiced pineapple-black pepper compote, crunchy chocolate crumble and candied hazelnuts.
Chef Mehta’s Cordon Bleu background is apparent in his cooking; take ‘A Beautiful Mess’ for instance – one can see distinct, beautiful layers as one digs their spoon in. Not a mess, this. And factoring in how light each of his desserts are one can safely rule out unnecessary fattening. Considering people’s rapidly developing palates, we would say SugarPlay fills a gaping hole in the dessert delivery market formerly occupied by the likes of truffle cakes. Give them a go for the following – they are eggless (yes.), online, and despite the use of science they have kept the fun element and indulgence factor using never-before-seen quirky ingredients.
Order here: Sugarplay
SugarPlay delivers all across town and in most of the suburbs. Their menu also includes teacakes, macarons, pralines and truffles.